Constructing: soldering bolsters

Lead solder is available through any DIY or plumbers’ suppliers. If the join is good, it can be near-invisible; the trouble comes because it can be used to fill gaps so people get sloppy, rely on the solder, and it looks bad.

• the surfaces have to be flat (even really coarse grit works) and have no oxide, but they don't have to be particularly clean; if you touch them with your fingers, it won't fail
• leave 5mm or so extra length on the liner beyond the bolster because it's the easiest place to remove afterwards
• apply the flux to the two surfaces and hold them together with mole grips or similar
• place a small length of solder on the bit of liner that you've left too long; snuggle it up to the bolster, making sure it is sitting on flux:

• heat it all up and watch for the silvery glint to appear on the other side of the bolster to show it has run right through
• wait for it to cool or cool it in water!
• remove the liner protruding beyond the bolster and clean up any surplus solder on the other side that might stop your scale material fitting closely to the bolster or liner